Model of the Week: Lukas

Agency: Anka Models

African Beats and Linen

Paris

The thumping beats of Ban-Kele and N'Dombolo and the influence of Zouk music are drumming in African sounds in France. In fashion, the energy of Africa is also taking hold, inspiring vivid prints and ethnic detailing from the streets to the runway and beyond for spring.

Makabu, designed by Charly Café, sews traditional African motifs onto well-tailored suits and fitted vintage leather jackets, gaining an audience of hipsters at local shops in Paris. Young designer Bisrat Negassi's pretty African printed suits shown last season are a hit this fall in stores. In accessories, Walk that Walk's spring '05 collection includes a chic group of dark leathers mixed with blue and brown African leaf prints while Olivia Morris quirky sandals and pumps were covered similarly in bold colored leaves. Adele Clarke sought African prints as front piping on her '40s-inspired high heels. And Guillame Hinfray's ebony wood with African etchings hinted at a big accessories trend.

On the runways, Cacharel is banking on young girls wearing breezy African printed cotton dresses and summer skirts paired with platforms. (Curiously, the label doesn't envision girls of color wearing these ethnic looks, since none appeared on the runway). No colored girls at Barbara Bui either, though her laced cut bias dresses, light floral prints, cardigans and beaded sweaters were accented with African embroidery and neckpieces. Costume National took cues from the continent, accenting his satin tops with African motifs and tribal bracelets and necklaces to spice up chic safari jackets.

How will this African trend develop? Look out for bold neckpieces, shorts and little tops in popping, printed textiles, and other striking African accents.

Linen, another big trend, owes its "it" factor to Nicolas Ghesquèire at Balenciaga. His linen bags with leather piping were editors' favorites this fall and a big inspiration for the fabric's huge spring comeback. We started seeing it in New York in several looks both at Proenza Schouler and Behnaz Sarafpour; Rafael Lopez's bolero jackets and high-waisted tulip skirts worked heavily in linen; and linen turned up everywhere in Milan, including at Haute, beautifully mixed with glass green colored chiffon and leather for tops.

The strongest indication of the fabric's high style quotient was in accessories seen at Premiere Classe in Paris. Rupert Sanderson's super-sweet mary janes in raw linen with black patent borders were workable naughty or nice. LeFlesh's green suede on stretch linen moccasins and biker tote mixed padded leather and raw linen that required a certain cool confidence. The fabric was worked to suit different moods; Estelle Yomeda mixed it with glitter on low-heeled '50s sandals, Laurence Decade worked it with snakeskin in a variety of styles. And fittingly, cognac colored leathers outlined Henry Beguelin classic jackets, shirts, and linen shoes. Linen is said to lose its shape but designers are finding new shapes for the fabric.

- Jason Campbell

The "Groom"

New York

Men's grooming is gaining on women's cosmetic needs and several new and established companies are responding with trendy product lines.

When it comes to men's grooming, beauty companies are realizing that men are buying for more than functionality. New companies are entering the market with strong, focused selections while established brands are expanding in the mainstream with specialty products. John Varvatos' highly anticipated grooming collection will launch this December with a prestige line of more than the basics, including concealers for men. Its packaging is bound to be more accessible than some pieces from Jean Paul Gaultier's vanity, which went to clever and James Bond-like lengths to hide eyeliner and concealer in "pens."

L'Oreal's just launched their "Men Expert" line of seven products targeting skin issues from hydration to anti-wrinkle to shaving. The cosmetic behemoth already produces very popular brands such as Lancome, Biotherm, and Vichy for men. Malin + Goetz recently premiered with an easy to understand line across three ranges: face, body, and hair, each sold as either a "cleaner" or "moisturizer." Nickel takes a different approach via a huge product range, and relies on its NYC and Paris-based spas to speak to men directly on usage and application. Kiehl's is one of the more successful brands for both men and women with nationwide freestanding boutiques, and their men's line features facial fuels, toners, and a host of shaving creams. Zirh has found success in offering extensive range with easy to understand packaging and bold eponymous products like Prepare (pre-shave lotion), Clean (face wash), and Rejuvenate (anti-aging cream).

Seasoned grooming customers swear by beauty-to-the-rescue treatment and renewal potions from top-shelf brands such as Clarins men, Sisley, and deW by Daniele de Winter. And there's a whole new crop of specialty products leaning toward the clinical. With specific glycolic and retinols, dermatology brands like Cellex-C offer potent products that target very specific beauty needs. Peter Thomas Roth also takes the clinical approach. Their extensive line of products includes several eye creams like glycolic acid eye complex, oxygen eye relief, and power C eye complex. Knowing which one to choose is personalized. Bionova takes custom care to another level with a line that asks men for their age, problem area, and other relevant data to determine the best-matched product.

How are labels reaching guys and what's to come in the market? Oliver Sweatman, CEO and co-founder of Sharps, a spunky new barber brand with a suite of maintenance tools (selling at Colette, Barneys and Fred Segal) with a growing fashion following discusses his strategy below.

- Michael Cohen

Brit It!

London

The Brits have a knack for designing "it" accessories. In the last couple months, we haven't been able to perch ourselves in any chic environ without meeting a Luella or Jimmy Choo bag at eye level. Now Clements and Ribeiro (after years of colloboration with Manolo Blahnik, Jimmy Choo and Christian Louboutin) have stepped into the competitive accessories category with shoes and a re-launched bag line. The grab-and-go, ethnic spirited range (manufactured by Baltali — the same facility that does Luella and Mulberry) seems a shoo-in to be the next must-haves. Employing a commercial formula for success, the line doesn't stray too far from current sensibilities: sweet leather satchels with utility brass hardware say a bit of Marc Jacobs or Mulberry. Studded and grommet pumps and Mediterranean blue-green leathers are also not new, but the duo works their unique feminine flair for prints and applying ethnic bits. And, their Bollywood-inspired turquoise gladiator sandals with metallic topstitching and pearl strewn platforms were a nice touch. The early word is that retailers including Neiman Marcus and Barneys have already written the line for spring.

- Jason Campbell

Model of the Week: Morten M

Agency: 2PM Model Management

Posh Spice

When Bond No 9 launched the Eau de New York series—Eau de parfums crafted to salute different parts of our fair city—we were confused. Is it really wise, wondered BD, to push the olfactory landscape of New York as a good thing? Take the latest in Bond's portfolio, Little Italy. Would we smell of day-old wifebeater dipped in sausage and pepper grease with a hint of fish sauce from nearby Chinatown? Thankfully, no. It's more creamsicle—a little bit sweet, with orange and citrus extracts available, like your favorite prosciutto, only in the old country.

$168 for 3.3 oz at Saksfifthavenue.com

Model of the Week: Monique Darden

Agency: Wilhelmina

Uptown Baby

New York

In a city that dictates dress by zip code, we can always count on Oscar de la Renta, Michael Kors, and Carolina Herrera to outfit uptown ladies. However, spring 2005 has proven New York's fashion identity finds it more at home uptown than ever before.

Targeted for her cash flow and classic tastes, the uptown woman was arguably the biggest story at the New York Spring 2005 collections. At Derek Lam, it was pretty bows on blouses, career jackets, and sheer, romantic chiffon gowns. At Behnaz Sarafpour — who showed her Japanese inspired collection at Tiffany's, the uptown jewelry institution — it was pulled together looks of obi sashes, abstract printed sundresses, full skirts, and socialite approved evening gowns.

Tuleh, Marc Jacobs, and BCBG's cardigans and suitably wild prints and ethnic detailing corresponds with the well-traveled uptown lady who has a knack for effortless mixing and matching. Business and pleasure — another conundrum solved by the clean sheen and boho elegance (a running theme in many takes on uptown) of Proenza Schouler's light tropical prints on voluminous ladylike jackets, sweet cardigans, linen separates, long gowns and high-wasted pants — defined their delicately polished collection.

Narciso Rodriguez flipped the script on his predictable dark shift dresses (a safe uptown hit), instead proposing colorful, looser silhouettes (turquoise a-line skirts, coral colored sundresses) while keeping that important sexy bust line, details sure to please in shape uptown girls who favor weekly yoga and pilates.

Like Narciso, fueled by a need for the traditionally chic, both Doo ri, Lacoste, and newcomer, Thakoon, took the sport and leisure aspects into their own fourth dimension, lengthening and loosening silhouettes for a feel that has the flexibility to hover comfortably between courtside tennis and cocktail parties.

Roland Mouret's plethora of inventive, razor sharp suits suggest a notion of uptown elegance, much like the subtleties, and sharp, defined lines of his form-fitting gowns. Unsuspecting devotees to downtown style like Luella and As Four grew their own roots in sophisticated uptown polish and prettiness. At As Four, it was gold tinted, slinky pleated gowns, that would look deadly on the right downtown doyenne, but presented on patrician looking models with pulled back hair, it bared an uptown imprint. Luella hit a confident note with apple printed tennis skirts and jackets, crisps white tops for uptown white girls with a bit of edge.

The lengthy lists of brands — from all levels of exposure that couldn't resist the commercial, sales friendly aesthetic of the uptown woman-also include Jeffrey Chow (jeweled tone a-line skirts and satin tops), Tracy Reese (up-dos and printed cocktail dresses), Tommy Hilfiger (upper eastside preppiness), Richard Chai(tulip skirts and pretty bows). There was no mixing of messages at the New York spring shows, the aim is to sell and the target is uptown baby!

— Krista Freibaum

Spanish Lessons

Madrid

In London, Rafael Lopez carries the Spanish flag, but back at home (where Lopez showed his well received R. lo collection), David Delfin and Magrit are two labels buzzing the Spanish capital. Delfin and his close knit group of collaborators have been on the radar since their spring 2002 Cour des miracles presentation that controversially mixed religious, social and sexual messages (the culmination of which depicted models, some with crucifixes around their necks, donning covered headgear). For spring, Delfin led his alternative tribe of fashion provocateurs down a gender-bending road of confidently dark, hybrid ensembles that was all urbane edginess. Working with black, white, gray and denim — color wasn't the big story in the collection — Delfin instead focused on challenging the eye with trompe l'oeil detailing; jeans that appear to have unusually long cuffs, cityscape on dresses, collared t-shirts with straps and buttons and tuxedo detailing and belting, all on one pant. Strong tailoring and flawless fits reined in some of these features that could otherwise read tricky. Fittingly, with the theme of gender identity, Delfin roped in the porno trend that's been covered on these pages, sending out a raw selection of illustrated private parts on t-shirts and jeans that was cheeky but not gratuitous. And it's this sticking to his artful point of view, which has become the label's signature, that's winning it creative accolades (and audience) for having something to say.

When Claudia Fabra, a glamorous new generation representative of Magrit, the 150-year-old family owned shoe manufacturer/label begins to tell you of a refreshed energy in the company that will have its shoes selling at Jeffrey and Barneys New York for the first time this spring, our ears perked. Labels including Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, Sergio Rossi and Donna Karan are clients of Magrit's design and manufacturing expertise, but the label is stepping forward to put a modern image on their own branded shoes, which also includes the opening of the sprawling Amat and Fabra store in Madrid. Not doing away with their bread and butter designs that have their footwear on all generations of women in Spain and across Europe, Magrit is spicing up the brand with new flavor that calls for four-inch high coral python pumps with contrasting black stitching, Swarvoski encrusted satin sling backs and a general cornucopia of hot footwear that's going head to head with other better known brands in the luxury category.

— Jason Campbell

London Fog Clears

London

It seems that London is growing up even while the hemorrhaging of designers showing in the city continues (this season saw the departure of Sophia Kokosalaki, next season Julien Mcdonald). Not that it has lost any of its creative, free spirited or urbanized edge (it is still the center of emerging talent). Rather, the city often referred to as the unruly child of the international fashion circuit appears to have reached a happy medium between the conceptual and commercial. Instead of an avant-garde circus, buyers and press were offered an abundance of trends and clothes that could be worn.

The strongest of these trends is undeniably print and pattern where Jonathan Saunders and Eley Kishimoto lead the way followed closely by Emma Cook, Clements Ribeiro, and new label Ashish. Saunders has cleverly accentuated the female form by using compass arcs and straight lines to separate graduated, tropical colors in everything from swimwear to floor length evening gowns. Eley Kishimoto went bolder, brighter and more experimental than ever. With a nod to their recent collaboration with Ellesse their sport-inspired collection combined everything from spots, stripes, stars and lollipop swirls to paisley and seventies retro prints — in the most graphic colors of course.

Two labels reinforced this trend, with an added injection of humor. Giles Deacon — the golden boy of A/W 2004 — sent models including Linda Evangelista out in exaggerated '40s and '50s dresses made of monkey, thistle and owl jacquard prints. Whilst Basso and Brooke — winners of the Fashion Fringe competition (journalist Colin Mcdowell's quest to find the next McQueen, which awarded them £100,000 and business advice from fashion big wigs for a year) tied their subversive, east meets west collection together with kaleidoscopic, whimsical fabrics that subtly featured orgies. According to the designers it is an "orgiastic carnival of sexual liberation with allegories of power". Ok!

Despite the proliferation of other trends such as the Seventies (Bora Aksu, Jenny Packham), the raised waist (Temperley, Camilla Staerk, Alistair Carr) and subtle deconstruction (Gardem, Preen, Jens Laugesen), the loudest message that echoed through the week was not so much a trend as an overriding mood of individuality. London has always been the city that looks straight to the street for inspiration, and if the current street scene is anything to go by — uniformity and regurgitated dress codes are out. Attendees of London Fashion Week confirmed that the standard fashion editor's get-up of vintage T-shirt and battered jeans has finally disappeared. In its place comes singularity. From a tuxedo suit topped off with a party hat (yes, cardboard birthday version) to an ever so chic red ensemble — fitted red suit, red stockings and red shoes — personality is quite clearly the latest accessory du jour.

— Gudrun Willcocks

Ethnic Vibe

Milan

Even before the Milan shows started, the all-important barometer of fashion's it girls and what they're wearing forecasted an ethnic mood for spring. Before Burberry's cool flock of Brit girls in washed out Wedgewood prints and light frilling descended the runway, fashion swans stylist Elisa Nalin and accessories designer Manuela Morin were already spotted in their gypsy dresses, with piled on jewelry and tough girl boots — instinctive looks capturing the expressive spirit of the moment. And the spirit on the Milan runways spoke of sojourns to Africa with local inspirations, from India and elsewhere, calling for a battery of prints, patterns, and colors.

Fendi and Roberto Cavalli, two houses that don't stray too far from exoticism and ethnic detailing, were in step with the season's trend, both showing a cool restraint when it came to piling on the accents. Fendi stuck to murky African color tones (brown, purple, rust) for jersey dresses, sophisticated tie die and day dresses that said chic holiday in colonial Kenya. Cavalli's lemon and leaf prints on breezy cotton and chiffon dresses, sweeping floral peasant skirts and the requisite animal prints worn with low hanging, hand-worked leather and fur bags with fringing defined their (ahem) lighter hand with the theme. Both labels punctuated the ethnic story with mega wood bracelets and dripping neckpieces, part of the statement jewelry craze that'll continue to grow beyond spring.

The hotly anticipated Alessandra Fachinetti, in her first turn for Gucci, besides showing a slew of jewelled tone jersey dresses, shiny satin pants, and killer bathing suit, hit an ethnic note with Indian silk safari jackets, feather fringed knitted skirts, and sumptuous bags mixing ostrich and crocodile. Kristen Mcnemany's long anticipated return to the runways was one of the stories at Prada, but it was Miuccia Prada's well received sporty presentation of peacock feather printed skirts, boho and rasta hats, and exotic detailing in that Prada color palette of deep purples, browns, and orange that had editors a-flutter.

Pythons slithered everywhere at Dolce and Gabbana, another Out of Africa inspired collection that mixed snakeskin with just about every other fabric. Nary a fashion house, including Anna Molinari, Etro, Max Mara, Antonio Marras and Riccardo Tisci in the city missed the ethnic trend. So don't be surprised when you begin to see the display windows at Zara and H&M reflecting all things ethnic. It's the dominant vibe for spring.

An aside to our Milan coverage is a report on the discovery of fashion's latest photography duo, which by our estimates, show the signs of strong future talents. The busy-bodied team of Daniele Duella and Iango Henzi made their presence known in Milan, always book in hand, ready to wax on their strongly convicted take on pictures. Their technique involves no retouching — a virtual revolution in the industry — and a precision eye for form, styling and sculptural lighting that endears them to magazines and clients. Remember, you heard about them here first.

— Jason Campbell

Trendsetter

Elisa Nalin (Paris)
Stylist

What's hot right now...

"It's all about accessorizing, lacquered wood, bakelite and vintage gold accented jewelry — the kind of accessorizing that announces your entry before you're even seen."

Model of the Week: Ajuma Nasenyana

Born in Lodwar, Turkana District, in 1984, Ajuma's first foray into modelling was in the Miss Tourism Kenya competition in 2003, at which she was crowned Miss Nairobi. It is here that she came to the attention of Lyndsey McIntyre of Surazuri modelling agency, who immediately spotted her international potential.

Soon afterwards, Gamma photo agency came to Kenya to do a story on Lyndsey's scouting work and were so taken with the beauty of the 5'10" Ajuma that she became the main feature of the story, which later ran in Gala Magazine, France. The pictures that were taken on this shoot were to provide the basis for Ajuma's portfolio, and these were duly presented to top international agency Ford Models, who signed her up for the Ford Models Supermodel of the World Competition.

November 2003, Ajuma travelled to Europe to build her portfolio prior to the Supermodel finals in New York. She was soon signed up with top agencies in London, Italy, Austria, Spain, Ireland, Canada and Sweden.

At the finals on January 20 2004, Ajuma sashayed down the catwalk in New York to rapturous applause from both the audience and the press. She made modelling history when she became the first black model to win a contract in an international competition open to all races, and from then on she has not looked back.

Ajuma participated in the New York Fashion Week alongside Naomi Campbell and Alek Wek for designers such as Baby Phat and Carlos Mienes before travelling to Milan to model for fashion houses such as Ungaro during the Italian Fashion Week. Paris was the final destination during the winter show season and she particularly struck leading British designer Vivian Westwood, who made her the lead model in her show.

Since the end of the show season, Ajuma has continued with her hectic schedule and has shot several magazine editorials, a video for Lacoste and a catalogue for Issey Miyake. She is currently in London, where she is working prior to coming to Kenya as the Lead Model of Kenya Fashion Week 2004.

Agency: Ford Model Management