Skinny

The menswear tailoring trend that landed big in stores this fall is credited to Hedi Slimane's influence at Dior Homme. The skinny jacket, the fitted pant, the slim three-quarter length coat and other sartorial Slimane signatures are definitive of several collections with the best renderings coming from the Japanese. Masaki Matsushima, a JC Report favorite, has shown two consecutively strong collections in Paris underscored by the skinny cuts of a master tailor's hand. Beneath the punk kilts and rock 'n roll grunge of (N)ine's spring presentation were super tailored, lived-in denim and perfectly worn and fitted T-shirts.

The Viridi-anne, another Japanese line that we recently discovered selling exclusively at Atelier New York (formerly A Boutique) is the latest entry to the skinny fit club. The strength of the three-year-old the Viridi-anne (selling for the first time outside of Japan) is that the collection is a sort of leitmotif for menswear. There's the iconic bomber, the blazer, the biker jacket, and the dress pant, all of which are put through a rigorous tailoring process with nary a thread of excess fabric unaccounted for. Precisely proportioned looks include a Prince of Wales check suit with the tiniest lapel, belted single button blazers, and a three-quarter length wool coat with a zip away sleeveless vest beneath. The effect is clean and sublime, but never stiff.

We're not only seeing skinny cuts in tailored clothes, one of the big looks for men this fall is a long skinny scarf or tie à la Roxy Music. The skinny scarf was proposed at Gucci, Paul Smith, and Dior Homme for spring and boys seem to have already embraced the trend if we're to go by the numerous sightings in New York, Milan, and Paris. Burberry, Calvin Klein, Dries Van Noten, and Jil Sander all showed very thin ties. And yes, the silhouette is more effective when everything is worn skinny.