Oh, Pioneers

Paris

If jeans went from being a workwear uniform to a ubiquitous urban staple, it's in part thanks to the forward-thinking visions of Marithé Bachellerie and François Girbaud, aka M+F Girbaud, together in life and on a groundbreaking fashion path since 1964. Relentlessly experimenting with cut and treatments, the Girbauds have been innovating for over 40 years, and continue today with the same enthusiasm. An exhaustive retrospective at Florence's Stazione Leopolda pays homage to this understated fashion powerhouse.

"Our strength is that we are not market-driven, but we bring with our innovations what the market needs," says François Girbaud, rather matter-of-factly. It all began in Paris with a bunch of imported American denims. It was the late '60s, and in order to soften and make supple the super-stiff fabric, the Girbauds artisanally tested washing solutions in a Saint Germain de Pres laundry, eventually developing, in 1976, the first industrial stonewash process from Italy. An endless series of challenging twists and turns ensued. Early experiments with crotch volume and X-shaped pockets gave room in the '80s to hip-hop-influenced baggy styles in state-of-the-art fiber blends, then to East-meets-West takes on sportswear. In the '90s, believing less and less in denim as a fabric, M+F Girbaud explored new sculptural possibilities in terms of cut, and were the first to introduce the ergonomically-engineered jeans, which they christened Matamorphojean. Environmentally aware, they've been working lately on non-polluting treatments without water and are currently perfecting another revolutionary concept: handmade jeans that one can build in his own garage.

M+F Girbaud is not fashion-y. "Fashion sometimes crosses our way, but we are still a brand in a constant state of evolution," the two stress proudly. They work on garments, not styles, and their creative laboratories, more than couture ateliers, resemble scientific cabinets where ideas and solutions are tested with an engineer's attention to detail.

The 2000 square meters of the Stazione Leopolda fully display the whole Girbaud story in a monumental, colorful scenography designed by Kristian Gavoille of Mobile Agency. Fabric and garment samples abound, while an entire section is dedicated to M+F Girbaud's unique communications approach, which has seen the two collaborate over the years with like-minded innovators, from Oliviero Toscani to Jean-Luc Godard. "We were invited by Pitti Immagine to show 'l'Altro Jeans' because they are interested in our history and want to show that we still work for the future," they conclude. "Italian manufacturers were the first to believe in our work, and still are. They supported us and gave us the opportunity to express our skills in different fields. We wanted to thank them for that."

-Angelo Flaccavento

Custom Cohorts

Mass shoe customization arrives this summer, as major brands have launched services allowing customers to become their own designers. The results are fun, affordable, and on your doorstep within three weeks.

Nike has not abandoned its dedication to performance, but it has picked up a new title as the frontrunner amongst the major brands in the customization game. The most impressive feature about the label's customization website, NikeiD.com, is the vast number of styles in every major performance category available to personalize — never mind all the customizable details, from color to thread. Those wanting a more hands-on design will still have to wait, though, since admission to Nike's iD Design Studio in New York is currently invite-only. What are you missing? Exclusive styles, materials, and one-on-one sessions with a shoe designer. Celebrities and other boldfaced names have been among the chosen few for the experience thus far.

Puma has created a tactile environment for the launch of Mongolian Shoe BBQ, the customization labs in their boutiques across the United States. Shoppers can feel the quality of materials and get an accurate take on color and texture, ranging from metallic gold leather to camouflage mesh. The label sees bringing these choices to the masses as the next step in the evolution of the customization craze. Converse's Chuck Taylor All-Star website shares the same easy interface of Nike, its sister brand. The simplicity of the All-Star's design makes customizing the shoe that much more fun. And with a host of colors to choose from, designs can range from the graphic (contrasting side panels and tongues in lime and orange) to a more subdued white on white. The personalization option lets the designer put their name on either the outer side panel or the back seam of the trainer.

Dr. Martens' boot is also aboard this trend. As part of a global product placement campaign targeting tastemakers, the company created 400 pairs of their classic boot with the first name of the recipient stitched onto the "Airwave" tag. Those lucky enough to make the list included John Galliano, Kate Moss, and Johnny Depp. The reaction was so positive that this year the company plans to launch the same customization service to all consumers.

Adidas' take on the world of customization goes beyond the look of the shoes and focuses on the fit. By measuring exact width, length, and weight distribution, shoes are manufactured for optimal fit to the buyer's feet. The Mi Adidas lab has just opened at Manhattan's new Adidas Sport Performance store, the largest of its kind. And for a more street approach to personalization, many are flocking to JGoods. The designer Jon Goodman, a high school senior, hand paints Nikes to your specifications. More adventurous shoe lovers can take matters into their own hands and purchase customizing kits, featuring exclusive paint mixtures that will not crack or peel.

"Now that the mass-market culture has an outlet, they are using it as a way of self-_expression and individualism," says Scout Group USA principal Junior Pence, who specializes in customization and trend forecasting and has worked with Diesel, Polo, Tommy Hilfiger, and Nike. "What has really driven this trend is not athletes, but rather celebrities such as 50 Cent, Jay-Z, and Pharrell, who have pushed shoe customization to a new level. Shoe companies have caught on and are teaming up with graffiti artists, architects, and celebrity designers to create specialized custom products, all limited edition."

From: The JC Report